Zahid has just been up the old Sonmarg road with our guests, and his photos and videos are the reason for this post. The Sindh river runs right beside the road there, and right now the water is so clear you can see the stones on the riverbed. In his words: "Right now Sonmarg is the only place where you can see a bigger stream." So our advice for anyone doing Sonmarg (Sonamarg on a lot of maps and signboards) this autumn is simple. Go up by the old road, and come back through the new tunnel.
One of our guests on the road to Sonmarg, with pine forest all the way up the slope.
Why take the old road to Sonmarg?
Since the Z-Morh tunnel opened in January 2025, most cars go into the tunnel near Gagangir and come out at the Sonmarg end minutes later. It's quick, and in winter it's what keeps Sonmarg reachable. But it skips the best part of the drive.
The old road is the original Srinagar to Sonmarg route on NH1. You leave the city through Ganderbal and follow the river up the valley past Kangan and Gund. The two routes split after Gund, before Gagangir: the new approach road takes you into the tunnel, while the old road carries on through Gagangir village and up the winding stretch to Sonmarg.
For most of the way the old road sits right next to the Sindh, with forest on one side and the river on the other. Since the through traffic now goes into the tunnel, it's far quieter than it used to be. For a slow, peaceful day, that quiet is the whole point.
A roadside stop on the way up, with the road almost to ourselves.
The Sindh river, up close
This is the part Zahid kept coming back to. On the old road the river is right there beside the car. You can pull over, walk down to the bank and just sit by the water.
Kashmiris already know this stretch. At the end of May, Rising Kashmir reported Gagangir crowded with local families out for the day. Most visitors from outside Kashmir never see it, because the tunnel takes them straight past.
Our guests sitting right by the water. From the bank you can see the colour of the river clearly.
Why October is a good month for it
In Harud, our autumn, the summer rush has gone and the mornings turn cold. By October a lot of the streams you see in summer have dropped, which is normal after the season. What Zahid noticed on this trip is that around Sonmarg the water is still running big. That's a local's observation from this month, not a measurement, and rivers change from week to week. But if you're in Srinagar this October and want one day of mountains and moving water, this is the day we'd pick.
Snow usually comes a little later. Last year our Sonmarg snow reels started in the first week of November (first snowfall in Sonmarg, 5 November 2025), though weather is never guaranteed. Our Kashmir in October guide covers weather and clothes.
Autumn colour coming into the trees beside the river.
The plan: up by the old road, back through the tunnel
Here's roughly how we'd run the day from Srinagar. Timings depend on traffic and stops.
| Time (roughly) | What happens |
|---|---|
| Around 8:00 am | Pickup from your hotel or houseboat in Srinagar. |
| Morning | Out through Ganderbal and up the valley to Kangan and Gund, with the river beside you. Tea break on the way. |
| Late morning | Take the old road through Gagangir instead of the tunnel. This is where we slow down and stop by the Sindh. |
| Around midday | Reach Sonmarg. Walk on the meadow, or take a pony toward Thajiwas glacier if the track is open. |
| Roughly 3:30 to 4:00 pm | Start back, this time through the Z-Morh tunnel. |
| Roughly 6:30 to 7:00 pm | Back in Srinagar. |
Why this way round? In the morning everyone is fresh, the light is good and you actually want to stop. On the way back it gets dark early in October, people are tired, and the tunnel is the quicker, simpler road home.
By the main route it's about 80 km (the Ganderbal district website says 87 km), two to three hours without stops. The old road and the river stops add time, so we leave at eight.
A river stop. There is plenty of room on the bank to sit and walk.
About the new tunnel
The Z-Morh tunnel was inaugurated on 13 January 2025, and it now officially carries Sonmarg's name. The main tunnel is 6.4 km long (news reports often say 6.5 km) and runs between Gagangir and Sonmarg at over 8,650 feet. It bypasses the stretch that used to be cut off by avalanches and landslides, so Sonmarg can be reached all year.
Stops along the way
- Kangan and Gund: towns along the Sindh, good for a cup of noon chai or kahwa and a stretch.
- Gagangir: forest and river together. This is the main photo stop, and the place to walk down to the water.
- The climb to Sonmarg: the winding old stretch the tunnel skips. Let the driver pick where to pull over.
- Sonmarg: the meadow, and the walk or pony ride toward Thajiwas. Ponies are hired and paid at the stand. Our Sonmarg travel guide has more on the valley itself.
A small celebration by the river, with the mountains opening up behind.
Practical tips
- Carry a warm layer. October mornings and evenings around Sonmarg are cold.
- Wear shoes with grip for the riverbank. The stones are smooth.
- Enjoy the river from the bank. The water is cold and the current is stronger than it looks.
- After snow or heavy rain we check road conditions the evening before. The old stretch near Gagangir gets less snow clearing since the tunnel opened, so in snow we use the tunnel both ways.
- Baltal, Zoji La and anything past Sonmarg are not part of this day trip.
Srinagar to Sonmarg taxi fare (2026)
| Car | Suits | Srinagar to Sonmarg and back (same day) |
|---|---|---|
| Toyota Etios / Swift Dzire | One to three guests | ₹2,500 |
| Toyota Innova Crysta | Four to six guests, or a lot of luggage | ₹3,500 |
Tolls and parking are included: a private car and driver, Srinagar pickup, back the same day. Waiting time and driver terms are confirmed on WhatsApp when you book. One-way drops, overnights and anything past Sonmarg are quoted for your date. Full details are on our Srinagar to Sonmarg taxi fare page, and for longer trips see our Kashmir cab service.
FAQ
Is the old road to Sonmarg still open after the tunnel?
Yes. Villages along it still use it, and Zahid's photos in this post are from right now. Most traffic now takes the tunnel, so it's quiet. In snow we use the tunnel both ways.
How long is the Sonmarg tunnel?
The main tunnel is 6.4 km according to the Press Information Bureau (many reports say 6.5 km). It opened on 13 January 2025.
Can you visit Sonmarg in winter now?
Yes. The tunnel was built for all-weather access, and our reels show Sonmarg in the middle of winter: fresh snowfall on 8 December 2025 and live snowfall on 16 January 2026. Road conditions still depend on snow and weather, so we check before you go.
How long does the day take?
Plan on roughly ten to eleven hours door to door with the old road, the river stops and a few hours in Sonmarg.
Plan your Sonmarg day with us
Want to do the old road this October? Send your date and group size on WhatsApp 7006085655, or call 9596044418. We'll send the plan and the car. We're a Srinagar travel agency registered with J&K Tourism (JKEA00005366).
