Kashmir in December is when the valley starts turning white, but not on a fixed date and not everywhere at once. Our 23 September reel shows what you're hoping for: a sunny day, snow on the pines, a river running dark between white banks, and us saying it straight to camera: when Kashmir turns white, it feels completely different. The reel doesn't say when or where that footage was shot, so we won't pretend it's December. What we can tell you is what December has actually looked like in the last two winters, what's open, how cold it gets, and how we'd plan your days.
Watch it on our Instagram: when Kashmir turns white, snow-covered pines and river in sunshine (23 Sep 2026)
Kashmir in December at a glance (2026)
| Question | Our short answer |
|---|---|
| Will there be snow? | Likely on Gulmarg's heights, Sonamarg and Pahalgam at some point in the month. Not guaranteed, and Srinagar city may only get rain. |
| First week vs end of December | Early December is often cold and dry. The end of the month, from Chillai Kalan on 21 December, gives better snow odds. |
| Temperature | Srinagar nights below freezing on many nights, days around 8-10°C in late December 2025. Gulmarg and Sonamarg colder. |
| Chillai Kalan | Starts 21 December and runs 40 days, to the end of January. |
| Crowds | Christmas to New Year is the busy week. Book hotels and Gondola slots early. |
| What's open | Gulmarg Gondola runs in winter (Phase 2 stops more in bad weather). Sonamarg town is reachable by the tunnel. Baisaran in Pahalgam is closed until the end of 2026. |
| Our prices | Winter and snow packages from ₹35,000 (2026). Day-trip cab from Srinagar: Etios ₹2,500, Innova Crysta ₹3,500, tolls and parking included. |
Does it snow in Kashmir in December?
Usually, yes, somewhere. But December snow in Kashmir has come late in both of the last two winters, so don't plan around a date. Two real examples:
- December 2024: the season's first snow came on 27 December. Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Pahalgam and Gurez got it, and so did Srinagar city, about 2-3 inches on the first day. Next day, 28 December, it got heavy: about 8 inches in Srinagar, about 15 inches in Gulmarg and 18 inches in Pahalgam. Flights at Srinagar were cancelled, trains on the Banihal-Baramulla line stopped and the Jammu-Srinagar highway shut.
- December 2025: a dry spell of about a month and a half broke only on 21 December, the first day of Chillai Kalan. Gulmarg got around five inches by evening and Sonamarg 3-4 inches, while Srinagar and the plains got rain. Fifteen flights were cancelled that day.
This year the higher reaches already had a first light snowfall on 13 October 2026, which we filmed at the Sonamarg Tunnel (see our first snowfall 2026 post). October snow on the heights doesn't tell you what December will do. For how snow usually builds through the winter, place by place, read our guide to when and where to see snow in Kashmir.
Kashmir in December first week
Expect cold mornings, clear skies on many days and fewer tourists. In both 2024 and 2025 the plains had no snow in the first week. If snow is the whole point of your trip, the first week is a gamble. If you want quiet roads, easy hotel rooms and crisp light for photos, it's a good week, and Gulmarg's upper slopes are your best bet for white.
Kashmir in December end
The last ten days carry the best snow odds, because that's when Chillai Kalan begins and when both of our dated examples above landed. It's also when hotels fill for Christmas and New Year, and when snow can close roads and cancel flights. Go then if you can live with a bit of disruption and keep a spare day.
Kashmir in December weather and temperature
Real readings from the last two Decembers, from the Meteorological Department figures reported in the press:
- Srinagar: minus 8.5°C on 21 December 2024, reported as the coldest in about 50 years. Late December 2025 nights were milder, between about minus 0.4°C and minus 2.6°C, with daytime highs around 8-10°C.
- Gulmarg: on 21 December 2025, a high of 3.4°C and a low of minus 1.5°C. In late December 2024 nights were around minus 5 to minus 6°C.
- Pahalgam: around minus 8°C on a late December 2024 night.
- Sonamarg: minus 7.3°C on 25 December 2025, the coldest in the valley that day.
So pack for below zero every night, even in a sunny spell like the one in our reel. Thermal inners, a proper down or padded jacket, woollen cap, gloves, and shoes with grip. A pheran from Lal Chowk is worth buying if you'll be out in the evenings.
Chillai Kalan: the 40 days that start on 21 December
Chillai Kalan is the harshest stretch of Kashmir's winter. It starts on 21 December every year and runs 40 days, to the end of January (some reports say 29 January, others 31 January). It's followed by Chillai Khurd, about 20 days, and Chillai Bachha, about 10 days. The first day is also marked as Pheran Day here.
What it means on your trip: this is when snow is most likely, nights are coldest, water pipes can freeze and power cuts are more common. Ask your hotel or houseboat what heating it has (bukhari, central heating or an electric heater), how many hours of hot water you'll get, and whether it has backup power. We ask these for every December booking before any money moves.
What's open in Kashmir in December
- Gulmarg Gondola: runs in winter and is the main lift for skiers. Phase 2 to Apharwat stops more often for wind, fresh snow or poor visibility, sometimes for the whole day. Book only on the official J&K Cable Car Corporation site, and check its notices on the morning of your ride. Our things to do in Gulmarg apart from the Gondola post covers what to do if it's shut.
- Sonamarg: the Sonamarg (Z-Morh) Tunnel opened on 13 January 2025, so the town itself can now be reached in winter on most days. Thajiwas Glacier, Zero Point and Zojila beyond it depend on snow and can stay shut. Check the traffic plan for the day.
- Pahalgam: the town and the river walks are open, snow permitting. Baisaran is closed until the end of 2026, so don't plan it. We don't include it in any trip.
- Roads and flights: on heavy snow days the Jammu-Srinagar highway, Mughal Road and the passes (Sinthan, Razdan to Gurez) can close, and flights can be cancelled. Both happened in late December 2024 and 2025. Before you set off, check with the Traffic Control Unit Srinagar (0194-2450022) or ask us.
Christmas and New Year in Kashmir
When snow came on 21 December 2025, it set things up for the Christmas and New Year rush at the snow spots. That last week of December is the busiest of the winter. Gondola slots for those dates should be booked as soon as your dates are fixed, and the better Gulmarg rooms go early too. We wrote about the reasons in why we tell guests to book winter packages early.
If your dates are flexible, the first two weeks of December or the first week after New Year are easier on hotel availability, though early December gives you lower snow odds.
How we'd plan a December trip
- Five or six days: Srinagar, a Gulmarg day (or a night there if you want snow mornings), Pahalgam or Sonamarg, and one houseboat night on Dal.
- Keep a spare day in the middle. If a road is shut after snow, we move the day instead of losing it.
- Don't put Gulmarg on your last day. If the Gondola stops for weather, you want another chance.
- Don't book a tight onward flight on the day you leave. Snow days cancel flights.
- Private cab with a local driver who carries chains. Our day-trip fares from Srinagar are Etios ₹2,500 and Innova Crysta ₹3,500 (2026), tolls and parking included. For the snowy road up to Gulmarg in winter there's also the Tangmarg union's 4x4 vehicle, about ₹2,500-3,500 return, and snow chains at Tangmarg cost about ₹800-1,200. Those are union rates, not ours. See our Kashmir cab service page.
- Go out early, come back by dark. Days are short and roads freeze after sunset.
Our winter and snow packages start from ₹35,000 (2026), with Gulmarg snow days, a winter houseboat and snow-safe cars. Details are on our Kashmir winter tour package page, and the full season is in our Kashmir in winter guide and winter packages 2026 guide.
FAQ
Is December a good time to visit Kashmir?
Yes, if you want snow and cold and can live with some uncertainty. The end of December gives the best snow odds. The first week is quieter but often dry.
Will it snow in Srinagar in December?
Maybe. Srinagar got snow on 27-28 December 2024, but in December 2025 it only got rain while Gulmarg and Sonamarg got snow. For likely snow, go up to Gulmarg.
Is the Gulmarg Gondola open in December?
It runs in winter, but Phase 2 often stops for weather. Check the official J&K Cable Car Corporation notices on the morning of your ride.
Planning Kashmir in December? Tell us your dates and how many of you are coming, and we'll tell you honestly what to expect that week. Call or WhatsApp 7006085655 (call 7006085655) or 9596044418. Travel Etios Kashmir is registered with J&K Tourism: JKEA00005366.
Photos: Travel Etios Kashmir, frames from our own reel of 23 September 2026.
