If you are planning a winter trip to Kashmir, two words will come up again and again: kangri and pheran. They are how many Kashmiris have kept warm for generations, and you will see both everywhere from December onwards. They have also had a little extra attention this autumn, with Srinagar-born singer Qazi Touqeer back on national television as a contestant on Bigg Boss 20.
This guide explains what a pheran is, what a kangri is, how they are used together, what to be careful about, and where you can see or buy them in Srinagar.
Travel Etios Kashmir is not affiliated with Qazi Touqeer, Bigg Boss or its makers. This is an independent travel guide.
Qazi Touqeer, Bigg Boss 20 and the kangri and pheran
Qazi Touqeer is a singer from Srinagar. In 2005 he won the singing show Fame Gurukul, sharing the title with Ruprekha Banerjee. In September 2026 he entered Bigg Boss 20, which premiered on 6 September with Salman Khan as host.
Inside the house he has brought Kashmir into conversation more than once. Kashmir Life reported that he spoke about his family in Kashmir and invited fellow contestant Gullu to visit his home and taste mirchi korma made by his mother and wife. The Times of India reported that he spoke to housemates about a concert of his in Kashmir that was cancelled.
Inside the house, he also explained the kangri and pheran to his housemates, and that is what prompted this guide. If his time on the show has made you curious about Kashmir's winter habits, here is what those two words mean for a traveller. For more on his hometown, see our Srinagar guide for Qazi Touqeer fans.
What is a pheran?
A pheran (also spelt phiran) is the traditional long, loose outer garment worn by both men and women in Kashmir. The name comes from the Persian word perahan, meaning a cloak or shirt.
A few things to know:
- Winter pherans are woollen. Summer versions are cotton. A woollen pheran is sometimes called a loch.
- It is cut loose. Wide sleeves, no side slits in the traditional style, and roomy enough that you can pull your arms inside. That room is what makes it work with a kangri.
- Length varies. The traditional pheran fell to the feet. The more common modern style ends below the knee and is worn over trousers or a salwar.
- Women's pherans are often embroidered. You will see tilla (metallic thread) work, aari chain-stitch, and fine sozni needlework. Men's pherans are usually plain.
- The poots. Traditionally a lighter inner layer called a poots was worn under the pheran, partly for extra warmth and partly to protect the outer pheran from kangri burns.
Pherans are also back in fashion. You will see modern, slimmer cuts in shops and on people in offices, often worn over jeans. 21 December, the start of the coldest spell, is now marked by many in the valley as Pheran Day.
What is a kangri? (with a safety note)
A kangri (Kashmiri kanger) is a portable fire pot: a small earthen bowl set inside a woven wicker basket with a handle, filled with hot charcoal embers. People hold it under the pheran, close to the body, or use it as a hand warmer. Medical researchers describe it as roughly 6 inches across, and it can reach about 150°F (around 65°C).
The best-known kangris come from Charar-i-Sharief in Budgam district, where makers are known for fine wicker and detailed weaving. Kangris go on sale as winter arrives, and markets fill with them from November.
Safety note. A kangri is real fire and real heat, so please treat it with care:
- Burns are the obvious risk. Keep it upright, keep the lid or handle area clear, and do not let children carry a lit kangri.
- Do not sleep with one. Set it down away from bedding, curtains and clothes before you rest.
- Long-term heat damages skin. Doctors in Kashmir link years of prolonged kangri use to skin damage (erythema ab igne) and to a skin cancer known locally as "kangri cancer". A few hours on a trip is not the same as daily use for decades, but do not hold it against bare skin.
- Charcoal gives off carbon monoxide. Kashmir's hospitals issue advisories every winter about asphyxiation from charcoal and gas heaters in closed rooms. Never use a kangri or charcoal heater in a sealed room, and ventilate.
For most visitors, the honest advice is to try one briefly, with your host showing you how, and to rely on your hotel's heating overnight.
Trying the kangri and pheran on a winter trip
The coldest part of a Kashmiri winter has its own name: Chillai Kalan, a 40-day spell from 21 December to 30 January. It is followed by Chillai Khurd (the 20-day "small cold", 31 January to 19 February) and Chillai Bachha (the 10-day "baby cold", 20 February to 2 March). This is when you will see pherans and kangris most.
Some practical ideas for couples and families:
- Wear a pheran over your own layers. It goes over a sweater or jacket, not instead of thermals. It is comfortable for old-city walks and evenings indoors.
- Ask your houseboat or homestay host. Many families keep a kangri, and a host can show you how it is held. On houseboats, confirm heating first. Our Dal Lake in winter guide covers what to expect.
- Take the photo, keep it short. A family photo in pherans with snow behind you is a lovely souvenir. A kangri in the frame is fine; just keep it upright and away from children.
- Plan around the cold. Days are short and roads can close after snow. Our Kashmir winter tour package keeps the first nights in Srinagar for that reason, and couples can read our notes on a Kashmir honeymoon in December or the Kashmir honeymoon package.
Where to buy a kangri or pheran in Srinagar
We only list places that published reports name:
- Batamaloo market, Srinagar. Siasat Daily and Kashmir Life have reported kangri vendors and shops in Batamaloo, with many designs, including Charar-made ones.
- Charar-i-Sharief, Budgam. The town most associated with kangri making. Workshops are local and home-based, so go with a driver or guide who knows the area.
- Lal Chowk, Srinagar. Kashmir Post (2021) reported ready-made pherans in the shops at Lal Chowk. Tailors across Srinagar also stitch pherans to measure.
Prices vary a lot with wool, embroidery and weaving, so we have not listed any. Check the fabric and stitching, and remember that a kangri is fragile and is not something to pack lit or carry hot into a car or plane. Check your airline's rules before flying one home.
FAQ
What is a kangri? A kangri is a Kashmiri fire pot: an earthen bowl in a woven wicker basket, filled with hot charcoal embers, held under a pheran or used as a hand warmer in winter.
What is a pheran? A pheran is Kashmir's traditional long, loose cloak-like garment. Winter pherans are woollen, and they are worn by both men and women.
Why are the kangri and pheran used together? The pheran is loose enough to hold a kangri underneath, close to the body, so the warmth stays inside the garment.
Did Qazi Touqeer explain the kangri and pheran on Bigg Boss 20? Yes. On Bigg Boss 20 he explained the kangri and pheran to fellow housemates, which is part of why so many people are now searching for them.
Is a kangri safe for tourists? For short use with a host's guidance, it is used safely by many people every winter. Do not sleep with one, keep it off bare skin and away from children, and never use charcoal in a closed room.
When is Chillai Kalan? From 21 December to 30 January each year, the coldest 40 days of the Kashmiri winter.
Can you help us plan a winter trip? Yes. Write to us at enquiry@traveletioskashmir.com with your dates and who is travelling.
